"Eyewear is a dramatic and transforming fashion accessory -- and it's easy and non-committal," says Scott Iseyama of Allyn Scura Eyewear (www.allynscura.com), which specializes in reproduction retro frames and vintage deadstock.

As with most pop culture trends, younger hipsters built the bandwagon by incorporating the influences of old movies and foreign culture into their personal style, believes Allyn Scura, the company's namesake. In more recent years, the same influences have also led to a less conservative, more worldly client. No longer confined to edgy artists, celebrities and fashion-conscious teens, today's vintage eyewear customer is the "classic male hunter who needs to find a specific frame to complete his look," says Scura. And he enjoys the hunt. While there will always be men who are simply looking to replace a broken pair of 30-year-old frames, these days physicians, lawyers and even stock brokers are adding a little flair to their staid appearances with unique retro eyewear.

Adds Scott, "At the end of the day, our customers want something they know they won't see on another person, and conveys they are interesting, creative and even smart."

Not Just a Piece of Glass
Uniqueness aside, value is another appeal of vintage eyewear. A modern-day prescription or sunglass lens can be put into an old frame as easily as it fits into a Calvin Klein frame off the rack. What's more, production costs and licensing fees drive up the price of today's designer frames while driving down quality. But in previous generations, there were no labels and no fees, which meant more resources went directly toward creating higher quality goods, In fact, America was the leader in optical manufacturing until the 1960s. Gold fill, used extensively in the past, would make manufacture of the same frames today simply cost prohibitive, as would the bone, precious metals, and tortoiseshell that were common materials. Consequently, there is a weight and feel to vintagewear that you don't get with today's frames, Scott Iseyama points out.

These characteristics contribute to the they-don't-make-'em-like-they-used-to notion prevalent in the retro eyewear industry. Although the classic, clean lines of past styles are being reproduced, these computer-scanned designs don't capture the same details that hand-cutting and polishing would create. Even "manufactured" pieces from the 1950s were unique, as each was made by hand, typically by the same laborer who brought his own talents to bear, giving each pair its own flavor. Perhaps not so surprisingly, these original pieces can be bought for less than new designer frames. And it isn't going to be out of style because it's from 50 years ago. It's something you've chosen to wear instead of being told to wear by department stores.

Frame Your Face
When choosing a new frame for the first time, the rule of thumb is proportion. If your face is round or large, the frame can extend and be shallower than it is long, which will draw the eye out. It seems round faces like angles, too; the soft aviator, oval P3 shape works well here. Consider color, and try to match the frame with your hair or eyes, or choose something that strikes a pleasant contrast. Light eyes look good with light or dark tortoiseshell around them.

One big no-no is that except for sunglasses, eyewear should never go above the eyebrow. It can be below or in the middle, but never above. Explains Allyn Scura: "It's an optical disturbance--you may not know what the problem is exactly, but it won't look right."

Of course, you should also ask yourself if you feel attractive in the frame. Does it fit your lifestyle or will that light and delicate rimless fall off during touch football with the boys? A man should accessorize in a way that fits his daily life, wardrobe and profession. Don't go it alone when shopping--bring someone who looks at you a lot, and whose opinion you trust.

Copyright © 2003, Atomic Magazine